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Fixing a loud PSU fan without dying

2025-07-30T00:00:00Z

Three months after I built my new computer, it started annoying me. There would occasionally be a noise that sounded like a fan was catching on a cable, but there weren’t any loose cables to be a problem. Over the course of a few weeks, the sound got progressively worse to the extent that I didn’t want to use the computer without headphones on. I measured the sound at 63 dB, which is about the sound of someone talking. That may not sound terrible, but it’s a constant, nasty noise coming from something that sits about 40cm from my head.

After some investigating¹, I identified the PSU fan as the culprit. I have a Cooler Master V750 SFX, which is not super high-end, but wasn’t cheap, either. It shouldn’t be developing issues after three months. Thankfully, it comes with a ten-year warranty, so it should be easy to get sorted, right?

Warranty woes

I looked at Cooler Master’s warranty, and for issues within the first two years you have to deal with the retailer. That would be Amazon in my case. So I looked at Amazon’s information on warranty issues. Their policy is that if it’s more than 30 days since purchase, you have to send it off to a third-party repair center and wait for them to diagnose and try to repair it. Here’s the kicker:

Usually repairs take up to 20 business days (including delivery time), but could take slightly longer

I use the computer for work, have upcoming LAN parties to go to, and generally can’t do without it for an entire month. That’s assuming they reproduce the issue: the PSU fan only turns on when it reaches a certain temperature, so if you just plug it in briefly it won’t exhibit any symptoms.

If I was going to do a warranty return, I’d need to buy a new PSU first to use while this one was away. If I’m spending £100+ on a PSU, then I’d be getting a better one that doesn’t have known issues with the fans. So when the Cooler Master eventually got returned I’d have no use for it. What a waste.

So the warranty is about as much use as a chocolate teapot. Good to know, I guess. If I wanted decent service, I should have probably used a real retailer, not Amazon. Lesson learnt.

Doing some research

If the warranty is useless to me, maybe I should just void it and try to fix it myself. I did some research online. Most of the results went like this:

if you’re not a trained professional you should not be opening up your PSU at all. There’s a lot of current that goes through it which will seriously hurt/main/kill you

it’s time consuming and potentially dangerous

or some other variety of doom and gloom. There were some actually useful results sprinkled in, though. A post on the smallformfactor.net forums details someone swapping out the fan on the 850W version of the same power supply because it was too noisy. It looks like the fan connector in the PSU is a two-pin connector, and they just used an off-the-shelf adapter to convert the standard four-pin case fan connector. It sounded a bit annoying to make it all fit, though.

A similar post on reddit showed basically the same upgrade, but identified the connector as a 2.54mm JST-XH. They crimped their own connector on, which feels a lot better than using a bulky connector. I do have a crimping set for JST connectors, but I absolutely hate doing them because they’re so fiddly and annoying. I’m not sure if I trust one of my crimps inside a power supply, either.

Looking at the pictures in those posts, I identified the fan as an Ong Hua HA9215VH12FD-F00. I searched to see if I could see any specifications for it. I couldn’t. But what I did get back as my first result was another Reddit post, this one titled “Getting rid of a HA9215SH12FD-F00 fan from your PSU”. It says something about the quality of a component when the first result is a post about getting rid of it because it’s annoying².

All of these mods seemed easy enough, and I’m reasonably confident in my ability to both discharge and avoid touching capacitors, so I probably wouldn’t die. I ordered a Noctua NF-A9x14 fan and some pre-made JST-XH connectors and waited for them to arrive.

Upgrade time

The replacement parts arrived one evening, so when I turned the computer off for the night I unplugged it from the mains, held the power button down for a while, and left it overnight for good measure. The next morning I popped open the case, disconnected and removed the PSU, gleefully tore the “warranty void if removed” sticker off, and opened it up.

Removing the fan was simple: unplug the JST connector and undo the screws holding it to the outer panel. I confirmed that my JST connectors were the right size, then started surgery on the Noctua fan. I carefully removed the heatshrink, cut off the normal fan connector, and separated out the four wires. A quick check of their FAQ confirmed the wiring colours: black was ground, yellow +12V, and blue and green used for speed control (which we’re not using in this instance). I clipped the blue and green wires off near the hub so they wouldn’t be in the way, then cut the yellow and black wires down to length, and attached the JST connector with a solder seal:

Old fan, new fan, burnt mouse mat

In the process I discovered my mouse mat doesn’t like being hit with a heat gun. Whoops. The solder seals are great: the solder in the center melts to form an electrical connection, the parts at the end grip the cable to provide mechanical strength, and the whole thing acts like heatshrink and keeps the connection insulated. A lot less fiddly than crimping JST connectors, and a lot smaller and cheaper than an adapter.

I installed the fan and reassembled the PSU. Then undid it all and tried again, as apparently the face the fan mounts to isn’t quite symmetrical and I’d installed the fan upside down. Connected everything back up, plugged the computer in, booted it up, and… nothing. The PSU doesn’t actually power the fan until it hits a certain temperature. I figured putting it under load would probably heat it up, so ran a graphics benchmark a few times. Eventually the fan spun up. Huzzah.

Soon the entire computer will be beige and brown

Peace at last

I measured the sound of the new fan: 43 dB. That’s a decrease of 20 dB. Due to the weird logarithmic properties of the dB scale that no one understands, that means it sounds about 4 times quieter to human ears. Big improvement!

It’s worth pointing out this isn’t a straight one-to-one upgrade. I don’t know the specs of the old fan in terms of airflow, and I’m just assuming that the Noctua will be good enough by virtue of being a decent fan. They also behave slightly differently as the power ramps up: the stock fan starts spinning at a lower voltage than the Noctua, which needs around 7V to get started properly³. I don’t think this will be an issue, as it’s effectively just putting a small step at the lower end of the fan curve. It might shorten the overall lifespan of the PSU, but from my point of view it failed after four months, so any extra time is a bonus.

I recorded some before/after audio, so you can hear the difference. I think there’s some amount of volume normalisation going on, so it’s not quite as stark a difference as in person, but it’s still noticeable.

Audio sample from the old fan

Audio sample from the new fan

And if you couldn’t hear it, here’s a visual representation:

Side-by-side comparison of the audio clips

The whole upgrade took about an hour (less time than writing this post about it!), and I even managed to avoid killing myself.

Opening the case and sticking my ear near to various components. High-tech stuff. ↩︎
On closer inspection it’s actually a slightly different model — there’s an S not a V in the middle there — but I’m going to assume that doesn’t change much on the quality/noise front. ↩︎
It then keeps spinning down to about 5V or so, it just needs enough power to initially get started. ↩︎

If all you have is a hammer…

2025-06-18T00:00:00Z

This, dear reader, is a hammer. It is almost entirely irrelevant to the article. Enjoy.

I presume everyone is familiar with the idiom “if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail”. If not, well, there it is. It’s generally used pejoratively about being single-minded, but I think it also gives a glimpse into something more interesting: mental and perceptual sets.

Before I explain, let me tell you a story about a person who bought a 3D printer¹. When they were first thinking about getting one, they weren’t sure if it was worth it. They could print a few board game accessories, but then what? After they got it, though, a whole new world opened up: everywhere they looked there were opportunities to improve things by adding 3D printed plastic. Broken appliances were repaired with 3D printed parts, all sorts of shelves, organisers, hooks and other things were made. But when they talked about this to other people, most often the response was “That’s nice, but I don’t think I’d use one”. How could they not see the truth in all its glorious layer lines?!

The answer is in the concept of a ‘set’², and instead of trying to explain it, I’m just going to quote Wikipedia:

In psychology, a set is a group of expectations that shape experience by making people especially sensitive to specific kinds of information. A perceptual set, also called perceptual expectancy, is a predisposition to perceive things in a certain way. […] A mental set is a framework for thinking about a problem. It can be shaped by habit or by desire. Mental sets can make it easy to solve a class of problem, but attachment to the wrong mental set can inhibit problem-solving and creativity.

This perfectly captures what happened. They’d developed a ‘3D printing mental set’: a predisposition to see problems that can be solved with their ~~hammer~~ 3D printer. Once I started noticing this pattern, I started seeing it all over the place.

Sets at work

Aside from the “could this be improved with some 3D printed plastic” perceptual set, I’ve noticed a couple of other sets: DIY, and writing puzzles.

DIY is probably the most obvious one. Once you become a little familiar with the basics of what you can fix and how, it seems like you start noticing the opportunities more. Before, you might have ignored that loose door handle, but now you notice it and realise with a screwdriver and a sex bolt³ you can fix it and stop it coming loose again anytime soon.

As you do more things, you build up your set of mental sets as well. You learn how to attach things to different types of walls, how to safely work with electricity, and so on, and suddenly installing a new outside light goes from a seemingly complex job to just exercising some of those concepts you’re already familiar with.

This works across ‘disciplines’ as well: I wanted to automatically cool a room down, using a fan in the window to blow in cool air. The 3D printing mental set gave me a way to make it physically go where I wanted it to, the home automation set gave me a plan for how to automate it, and the electricity set helped me figure out how to wire in the relay. It sounds a bit stilted when I spell it out like that, but the catch is I didn’t have to sit down and work any of this out. I was already primed to think in a certain way. I had a whole selection of hammers, and could pick the right combination of them to beat this particular nail⁴.

Puzzles are a bit different. I enjoy taking part in puzzle hunts⁵, and at first I was bewildered at how the authors came up with all the puzzles. After I started thinking about writing some myself, though, I began to notice all kinds of things that could maybe be turned into a puzzle: a specialised database, or a song with repetitive lyrics, or set of things with unique ID numbers. Writing the actual puzzles is still tricky, but once you’ve equipped the “look out for puzzle material” perceptual set it’s much easier to gather a range of ideas.

For example, one puzzle I wrote came about because I stumbled upon Sir Patrick Stewart’s Cowboy Classic Sampler⁶. I think everyone will agree that it’s a fairly unique collection. I tied some samples of the songs together with some screen captures of Sir Patrick as Picard in Star Trek: The Next Generation, and puzzlers had to find the season and episode numbers of the pictures, then use those numbers to select a track and a word from that track in the audio mix. Those words spell out a question, and the answer to that question is the answer to the puzzle.

There were other hints mixed in to point you in the right direction, it wasn’t quite as opaque as it might sound! But the point is without being in that “puzzle finding” mindset when I came across the album, there’s no way I could have come up with that puzzle. Like with the fan, I was primed to think a certain way, and managed to create something I otherwise would have struggled with.

The curse of noticing things

Figuring out how to make stuff isn’t the only place sets appear, though. Perceptual sets are about how we perceive things. When you read something with lots of bullet points, em-dashes, and the word “delve” do you automatically think it’s LLM generated?⁷ Then you have an LLM text perceptual set! It’s kind of annoying, as it’s difficult to “turn off” and stop noticing these things once you’ve seen them. Similarly, I think I have a “bad grammar” set. I know it doesn’t bother a lot of people, but if I’m reading a book and there’s a rogue apostrophe it will throw me right out of the moment. It’s like tripping up when walking and being torn out of a daydream. There’s some use to these — being able to notice grammar errors easily helps with my writing — but for the most part they’re a negative input: they point out things are broken or bad.

The “edge case set” takes this to another level. After about 20 years of writing software⁸ I have a finely honed ability to spot problems. Give me something to implement and my brain will immediately rattle off all the different edge cases and under-specified parts. Then some other bit of my brain gets the job of deciding which we actually care about, which are worth raising, and so on. It’s definitely useful to spot them up-front, rather than when you’re deep in the weeds implementing something, and tends to make everything go a lot smoother if you can hammer the major ones out when planning work. It doesn’t turn off after work though; it comes up when reading board game rule books, or descriptions of the magic system in fantasy novels, or news reports, and so on. It’s a lot less useful then.

Speaking of news reports, here’s a fun one: Gell-Mann amnesia is a cognitive bias where even when you critically assess media reports about something you’re knowledgeable about (say, technology), you continue to trust similar reporting in other areas (say, medicine). But once you know about Gell-Mann amnesia, you might start to actively notice when it happens. You scoff at the article about how the Internet is a “series of tubes” and then start reading the next one about a cancer treatment, but — wait a minute — your Gell-Mann amnesia set kicks in. I’m not sure what you then do with this information. Dismiss basically all the media and news as useless? It’s honestly pretty annoying.

The meta set

I’ve had this blog post on my ideas list since I first noticed the “3D printing mindset”. I didn’t know sets were an actual thing, and I didn’t have most of the examples I do now. As time went on with this idea rattling around in the back of my head, I started noticing the patterns come up more and more. There’s lots of more examples I didn’t include because I didn’t want to just write a listicle of mental patterns. But the fact that I noticed them all seems to mean that I’ve developed a set set, or a meta-set, if you will. It’s fascinating to think about how all this happens inside our mushy bag of neurons, but also a bit terrifying. If thought processes are that malleable, what stops you accidentally breaking them? Actually, thinking about things like Q-Anon, flat earthers, and a lot of contemporary “politics”, maybe that’s quite easy to do?

Image credits

Photo	Creator	Licence	Source
Hammer	Ian Talmacs	Unsplash License	Unsplash

Surprise! I am that person. Bet you didn’t see that coming! ↩︎
I feel like they should have consulted the mathematicians and/or computer scientists before they picked a name. ↩︎
Yes, that’s a real thing. No, I won’t ever use any of the alternative names for it. ↩︎
OK, I’ve strained the metaphor enough. I’m sorry. I’ll stop. ↩︎
If you’re not familiar, a puzzle hunt is a competition where you try to solve puzzles faster than other teams. The sort of puzzles involved are perfectly described by this quote from Mike Develin: “Imagine a word search. Now imagine you aren’t told what words to look for. Now imagine you aren’t told it’s a word search. Now imagine it isn’t a word search.” ↩︎
Go and give it a listen. I’ll wait. ↩︎
I hereby certify all my em-dashes are hand-crafted. Relatedly, Claude Code keeps writing comments that use hyphens when they should actually be em-dashes. Maybe they’ve trained it to avoid them? ↩︎
I just made myself sad by working this out. I still feel young at heart! … Or maybe that’s cholesterol? ↩︎

Building a new Computer

2025-06-03T00:00:00Z

The finished PC. Cat pen for scale.

I recently¹ built a new computer, after exclusively using a laptop for three years. It’s also the first time I’ve departed from the usual combo of an Intel CPU and Nvidia GPU.

While the form factor of a laptop did make it amazingly handy for travelling and attending LAN events, it was starting to show its age and there was basically no sane upgrade path. The main problem was its 3060 mobile graphics card, which was okay for the first few years and then slowly descended into painful. At the time, the (fairly disappointing) 50-series had just been released, but hadn’t yet made it into laptops. Nvidia had stopped production on the 40-series beforehand, so there also weren’t any compelling options there, either.

That’s not to say there were no laptops at all that I could have upgraded to. There were. Just not really any that ticked all of my perfectly normal boxes like “run Linux”, “have at least 64GB of ram”, and “run modern games well”. Having to upgrade the entire system just because the graphics card was showing its age was a bit of a drag, too. So back to the land of desktop computers I went!

To try to preserve some of that convenience, I opted for a small form factor (SFF) case. The computer and all the accessories can fit inside a hand-luggage-sized flight case. More on that later, though.

Components, Choices, and Cramming

So what, exactly, is in this computer? The case is a Fractal Design Terra, which is a lovely little 10.4L case². My last desktop PC was a normal-sized Fractal Design case, which I liked a lot, and it seems like they’ve upped their game since then. The Terra is both pleasant to look at (just look at that wooden panel!), and a breeze to work in. The sides and top are fully and easily removable, giving you great access to everything inside³. I expected an SFF build to be fiddly, but the case made it feel about the same as a normal full-sized build⁴.

The case with sides and top off, and wires everywhere in desperate need of management.

Another nice feature of the case is the movable spine. I think this is relatively common in SFF cases, but it was new to me. You mount the graphics card on one side of a metal divider, and everything else on the other. The divider (or spine) can be moved side-to-side depending on what exactly you’re putting in the case.

As I mentioned earlier, this was my first departure from the Intel + Nvidia bandwagon. Nvidia’s 50 series was underwhelming, and Intel managed to put out a generation of chips that literally fried themselves. It seemed like a good time to try out AMD’s offering! I went for the newly released Radeon RX 9070XT graphics card, and a Ryzen 7 9800X3D processor⁵. The processor has a Thermalright AXP90 X47 Full heatsink on top of it, with a Noctua NF-A9 fan on top of that.

The motherboard is a Gigabyte B850I Aorus Pro, and it hosts 2 32GB Corsair Vengeance RAM modules, and a 2TB Crucial T705 NVMe drive. Powering it all is a Cooler Master V750 SFX. The PSU is modular to reduce the number of wires that need to be fitted in, but they’re still pretty big and bulky. I’m tempted by custom cables but they’re rather pricey, and you can’t actually see inside with the sides closed…

With the diminutive size of the case and all the components crammed in, there’s actually no room left over for case fans. The PSU, GPU and CPU all have fans attached, but that’s it. There are stories online of people having heat issues, but thankfully everything seems pretty happy in my setup. The components all draw in air from the sides, and the hot air passively vents out the top. If I keep the CPU under maximum load for a while then it starts to thermal throttle slightly, but the only time I’ve actually managed that is when compiling a kernel. Why was I compiling a kernel, you ask? Well, we’ll come to that.

But does it Linux?

I didn’t go into this build completely blind. I did a bit of reading and chatting, and it sounded like AMD drivers were pretty good on Linux these days. I didn’t check specifically if any of the components were supported.

The 9070XT was released on the 6th of March. I built my PC on the 26th of March. The first version of Mesa (the 3D graphics lib) that was generally stable with 9070XT cards landed in Arch on the 20th of March. If I did the build just one week earlier, I would’ve had a much less fun experience.

It still wasn’t quite perfectly smooth, though. When playing games I’d occasionally have issues. In some cases the screen just went blank and came back after switching windows, but in others the graphics drivers couldn’t recover and the PC needed rebooting. Fortunately the drivers are open source, and they have a public issue tracker hosted by the Freedesktop project. Searching through the issues, I found they’d already been reported (by another Arch user, of course), and there were various suggestions for work-arounds, as well as lots of work trying to reproduce the issue.

Within a week, an AMD developer had posted a set of patches that might address the issues, and asked people to test them. That’s fortunately pretty easy on Arch: you just clone the repository containing the PKGBUILD file, drop in the patches, and update the checksums for them. Then you start compiling, realise you didn’t tell it to use more than one CPU core, abort it, and start again but this time running on all cylinders. Soon enough I was running a patched 6.14 kernel and the problems stopped completely. Others reported similar outcomes, and the patches worked their way into the kernel proper.

I spent a few weeks having to compile a custom kernel every time I accidentally updated it (I should’ve just stopped pacman from touching the kernel for a bit…), then one day the patches didn’t apply because they’d been merged upstream. Since then everything has been perfect.

A friend commented that “this wouldn’t happen with Nvidia”. They meant it negatively, but I wholeheartedly agree! Maybe Nvidia have fewer launch bugs than AMD, but you absolutely wouldn’t be able to talk to their driver engineers on a public bug tracker, and get access to test patches that fix your issue. I’ll happily take a few bugs in exchange for a company that operates openly in a way consistent with the rest of the Linux community.

But does it travel?

Travel mode, engage!

So the computer works fine at home, but how do I get it to other places? I just shoved a laptop in a backpack⁶, but you can’t quite do that with a PC even one this size. I’d seen a few people at LANs who packed everything in flight cases, but they always seemed a bit unwieldy. Doing some research, though, I found that I’d just be able to squeeze everything into a flight case sized to be taken onto a plane as cabin baggage.

Peli (or Pelican in the US) are the most well known maker of flight cases, but I chose to go with Nanuk instead. Spec-wise they’re fairly similar. Nanuk are a bit cheaper. The killer difference for me, though, is that Nanuk publish STEP files of their cases. As someone with a 3D printer, giving me CAD models of things so that I can easily mod them is definitely a way to win my favour.

After lots of measuring and thinking and modelling I came up with an arrangement where everything could fit snugly into the case. The case has cutouts for the wheels and handles, which constrain what can go where. I ended up wanting the computer at the handle-end of the case to make best use of space, but that means it needs something to take its weight when the case is vertical. The solution was, of course, 3D printing.

Using the STEP files from Nanuk I designed an insert that spans across the case, with screw holes that line up with the ones in the flight case. I wasn’t sure it would be able to take the weight like that, so I also added in some supports in the other direction (running down to the bottom of the case, if it’s stood up). I ended up printing it in three parts, and it came out perfectly first time. I can’t emphasise how nice it is having CAD models instead of having to measure and guess at things.

With the support in place, I focused on cushioning the computer. I opted for 10mm thick EVA foam as it’s easy to obtain and work with, and doesn’t take up too much room. I used contact adhesive to glue the foam directly to the case and the 3D printed divider. There’s a piece that goes between the computer and the keyboard, so I printed some little 3D supports to hold that more firmly in place, and stuck those in with contact adhesive as well.

So how does it all hold up? It’s been to one LAN event so far, and it’s great. I think the flight case might actually be easier to carry than hefting a heavy backpack: the handles are sturdy and comfortable, and it has chunky wheels for pulling it around. It’s also actually easier to get everything set up when you can see it all laid out in the flight case and pull out what you need, and then the case can be tucked away out the way for the duration of the event.

Recently-ish. It may or may not have taken me a few months to get around to writing this post. ↩︎
Using litres to measure computer cases always feels wrong. Those are the units we use for water. Don’t put them near the computers! ↩︎
The case also has holes to put security screws in to stop all of these nice easily removable parts from being removable. Very handy when you’re leaving it unattended at a LAN. ↩︎
Which for me means it was good fun for about an hour, and then I got fed up and just wanted it to be done already. ↩︎
Three months in and I still can’t remember these random strings of numbers. Someone even explained the versioning scheme to me. ↩︎
Along with a portable monitor, mouse, keyboard, headset, mouse mat, kensington lock, power supply, cables, and controller. It was a heavy bag. ↩︎

A year of boardgames

2024-07-26T00:00:00Z

I realised the other day that it’s a little over a year since I started building out a collection of board games¹, and thought it’d be fun to go through the collection and what I think about the games in hindsight.

The beginning

Ticket to Ride: Europe

I don’t remember how I discovered the concept of “modern” boardgames, but just over a year ago I purchased Ticket to Ride: Europe as my first. Prior to that I thought board games were like Scrabble, Monopoly, Trivial Pursuit, etc: they might provide a distraction occasionally, but didn’t amount to actual fun in the same way a video game might. I’d characterise those “classic” games as generally being extremely dependent on luck, not presenting many interesting choices, and generally being punishing if you’re behind.²

Ticket to Ride came as a breath of fresh air. You get to decide where to route your lines, whether you want to take on more cards, how aggressive to be in blocking the other players, and more. There’s still some luck involved, but it’s managed by being able to draw from a pool of visible cards, or being able to select which route cards you keep.

Shortly after I also picked up Carcassonne, and was similarly enamoured. I’ve not played either of them recently, though: they both fall into a weird little gap for me. While I enjoy the games, I don’t like playing them with certain groups³, but I don’t love them enough to prioritise them over other games when playing with other groups.

Pandemic

The next “gateway” game I picked up was Pandemic, which was my first co-operative game. I loved everything about it, and still do. The feeling when you managed to claw back a victory after setback after setback is great, but so is the shock when everything goes even worse than you thought possible!

Pandemic was also the first game where one of the mechanics caught my attention. The way epidemics work is that you take the bottom card from the infection deck, which becomes the center of the new outbreak, then shuffle that and all the discards back onto the top of the deck. It sounds simple, but it has big implications: everywhere that was previously infected can now be re-infected, and you’re guaranteed some tense rounds while you work back through those cards. It still blows my mind a little how shuffling and re-adding some card can mix up the game so much.

I still play Pandemic when I can, and it generally has a spot in my board game bag when I’m going away. I’ve since picked up the On the Brink expansion which adds some fun new twists⁴ to the base game, and Pandemic: Hotzone – Europe which plays similarly but is a bit quicker and smaller. I’ve also recently ordered Iberia, but it hasn’t materialised yet.

More gateway games

The Quacks of Quedlinburg

Over the next few months I picked up The Quacks of Quedlinburg, Azul (the mini variant), and Splendor. Quacks is probably my least favourite out of all the games so far: it’s not terrible, but it straddles deck-building and push-your-luck in a way that I don’t find particularly satisfying. It’s fun to play the combos you’ve invested in, and it’s fun to try and push your luck, but it’s not really fun when failing at the luck element means you don’t get to use the stuff you were building.

Quacks does bear the distinction of being the first game I customised, though: it got a little plastic organiser to hold all the ingredients instead of having to sort through a massive plastic bag with them all mixed in. My appreciation for game boxes with good built-in storage has gradually increased over the year, as have the tools I have for fixing those that don’t. But we’ll get back to that…

Azul is fun when you’re in the right mood; I’m not terribly into abstract strategy games, but Azul is light enough that it’s enjoyable. Splendor, on the other hand, I really like. So much so that I wrote a digital re-implementation of it. Both Azul and Splendor allow you to mess with your opponent a little, but not too much, which keeps it interesting but also means it still plays well in groups that don’t like too much head-on confrontation.⁵

I think the thing that really caught my attention in Splendor, though, is the quasi-engine building you do. It’s not actually classed as an engine builder on BoardGameGeek, but as you collect cards you get discounts on other cards, which lets you get better cards and further discounts, and so on. I love that kind of positive feedback loop in video games, and I apparently love it in board games as well.

Terraforming Mars

A recent game of Terraforming Mars

I’d heard lots of good things about Terraforming Mars, but I was worried it sounded a bit too complicated so put off buying it for a while. I mean, its weight on BoardGameGeek is orange. That’s scary, right?! Well… no. Terraforming Mars is easily my favourite board game, and I’ve played it pretty consistently since buying it. It has such a huge stock of cards that no two games feel the same: one game you might have an arsenal of cards that generate and use microbes; another you might have a plethora of science tags that let you play some of the most powerful project cards; next you might be spamming forests on Mars, or drowning in credits because you have too much income. It has the engine building element that I love, but I also really enjoy that it’s not always obvious who’s doing well and who’s not until the final score is tallied; that keeps everyone engaged and working on things for the entire game.

I’ve added in the Prelude expansion, which I wouldn’t play the game without now, and the Venus Next expansion, which adds some interesting bits but is nowhere close to being a hard requirement. I’ll probably pick up Colonies next. Prelude adds a new type of card that you take at the start of the game, which gives you a fairly hefty boost; these help you get off to a faster start, and may also affect what strategies you try to run with for the rest of the game. Venus Next adds another resource track, but you don’t have to complete it to end the game; it also adds a bunch of project cards that have “floater” resources, but they don’t feel that much different to the base game microbes⁶. One interesting thing that Venus Next adds, though, is a “solar phase” where one of the global parameters is increased at the end of each generation. The active player decides which parameter, but gets none of the benefits for it, so you get to decide entirely tactically.

There are two drawbacks to Terraforming Mars: it’s a little lengthy, and some of the components are a bit rubbish. Timing-wise, I find it takes a good hour and a half for a two player game, while adding a third player can almost double that. Obviously it depends who you’re playing with and what’s happening in the game, but that’s enough of a commitment that you more-or-less have to plan when to play instead of just spontaneously bringing it to the table. Component-wise, the game comes with basically no storage for anything other than little plastic bags that slosh around in the box; horrible plastic cubes for resource tracking that somehow jump out of your hand constantly, and flimsy printed sheets for putting those cubes on.

My custom player boards

The reason I got a 3D printer was in part so that I could make my own upgraded player boards that actually held the pieces in place instead of letting them fly everywhere if the table was slightly knocked. You can buy third party ones but I figured it was a teach-a-man-to-fish kind of situation, and dropping £200 on a 3D printer would save me money in the long run vs buying £50 of player boards someone else had made.⁷ About seven versions later, I have some boards which I think look and feel great. It’s 3D printed in two halves, then has a laminated 2D print sandwiched in the middle for all the markings and artwork.

As well as the player mats, I 3D printed some boxes, card holders, and so on, but have since replaced them with an insert from Folded Space. These are made of foam, and are perfectly sized to the game box and all the components in it. I could have eventually got to that point with 3D prints, but it would have taken a lot of time to design and print everything. Terraforming Mars was also the game that I first sleeved, as trying to shuffle the huge decks was an exercise in frustration. With all of the cards sleeved, not only are they more protected against wear and tear, you can now shuffle the deck just by gently mashing stacks of cards together. It makes shuffling so easy I now sleeve basically all my games as I hate having to riffle shuffle unsleeved cards.

Marrakech and HeroQuest

Later in the year I bought Marrakech after playing a giant version of it at a games expo. It sits somewhere between Azul and Splendor for me: it’s fun, and good when you want a short game, but it’s not high enough on my list to want to take it away with me. Playing with felt rugs does make a nice change from flipping cards or dealing with plastic components, though.

I also picked up HeroQuest at one point when it was on offer. It’s a good concept, and I felt like I would like it, but it was a bit of a let-down. The biggest problem for me is that you either need one player to basically be the DM, and manage the board, or you use an app to do that and have to deal with a bunch of admin and duplicating things because you’re half playing on the board and half in the app. I also don’t like relying on an app because I’ve been around long enough to know how easily computer software can become defunct, get removed from stores, get “updated” to remove features you need, and so on. I feel like the game would work well with five people: one to DM, and four to control the four heroes. But if you’ve got five people who want to play a dungeon crawler why aren’t you just playing D&D or a similar TTRPG? I’ll probably sell this at some point.

Party games

Codenames

These are all smaller games, and with most of them I’d played them before and decided I wanted my own copy. Codenames is my favourite party game, and I also picked up Codenames: Duet and they now live in the same box with a nice 3D printed insert. Codenames seems to just naturally produce fun moments: when an obscure clue is understood completely it feels amazing, but when it’s totally misunderstood it’s also generally hilarious. There’s also a great tension as the spymaster when you give a clue, then immediately realise it can be misinterpreted in a way that points straight at the assassin.

Poetry for Neanderthals is fun in the same party-word-game sort of way, but basically has no replayability. There are few enough cards that if you play a few times you can remember the “harder” word and just immediately guess it once you get the “easier” one being hinted (you can also sometimes just do this outright, which feels great but it kind of sucks from a gameplay point of view). The best bits are the inflatable “no stick” you get to bop people with, and how everyone speaks like a neanderthal for a little bit out of habit even after the game has ended. I seem to be weirdly good at this game, and I’m not sure what that says about me.

Love Letter has to take the spot of best game per cubic centimeter. It’s basically just a small set of cards, but it enables some really fun emergent gameplay. I really love how small the game is, and how easy it is to set up and play. It’s the perfect time filler. I’ve also played Lovecraft Letter, which adds a lot more complexity and was great fun, but is sadly out of print and I haven’t been able to find a copy at a sensible price.

Fluxx

Star Trek mega-Fluxx

My arbitrary 12 month period ends not long after I went to a tabletop event and played, amongst other things, Cthulu Fluxx, Doctor Who Fluxx, and Star Trek: The Next Generation Fluxx. Each game has the same core Fluxx elements, but adds slight twists along with the unique themes. I ordered a copy of Star Fluxx, but then found out that you can combine the four Star Trek variants (TOS, TNG, DS9 and VOY) together with some expansions to make a mega game so ordered all of those as well. While putting together my mega-Fluxx order I noticed they had a Firefly Fluxx that was out of print so I snapped up one of the last copies of that, too.

I ordered most of the games direct from Looney Labs, as the out of print ones weren’t readily available anywhere else. Unfortunately, UK Border Force managed to misread the import label⁸ and demanded £300 of VAT and import duties on them! They refunded it eventually, but this small set of tiny games were for a little while the most expensive things in my collection.

Fluxx is fun enough, but the mega-deck version is brilliant. It gets much more chaotic, with multiple captains, teleporters, and other doodads in play to steal cards back and forth. I was worried it wouldn’t play well with non-Trekkies, but the cards from each series use a different font and the weird people that can’t identify Star Trek series based on uniform variations seem happy enough relying on that.

Future

A few more months have passed since then, and my collection is still growing. Board game stores have summer sales, it turns out! If my physical wallet was in any way involved in the purchasing flow I’m sure it’d be crying.

I’ve recently started logging my plays with BG Stats (which synchronises the information up to Board Game Geek). I’m interested to see if the hard numbers actually align with my conceptions of how often I play certain games. If I do another roundup in a year’s time, expect it to have a lot more stats in…

Other words that may be appropriate here: “hoarding”; “compulsively obtaining”; “spending all my money on”, etc ↩︎
Think about a game of Monopoly: what do you actually get to decide? It basically comes down to “buy or not” if you land on an available property, then later on “buy more houses or not”. ↩︎
e.g. a family member doesn’t like the farmer mechanic in Carcassonne, and I don’t find the game interesting enough without them. Nothing wrong with the game or the people, we’re just not going to both enjoy it the way we like when playing together. ↩︎
Which is definitely why I bought it. Not because it comes with amazing little petri dishes to keep the disease cubes in. Certainly not. ↩︎
There’s a different edge to taking a card that someone else wanted in Splendor — there’s twelve others they can pick from, or they can take a face down one, etc; it might be an inconvenience but you haven’t totally upended their plans — versus blocking a really long train line they were trying to build in Ticket to Ride. ↩︎
Floaters are meant to be big pieces of infrastructure that float in the atmosphere of Venus. The fact that they feel exactly the same way as tiny little microbes when played seems wrong. ↩︎
Having since bought a more expensive printer, I think I’m past the point of convincing myself it’s “cheaper”. It’s a lot more fun, though, and if you design parts yourself you end up with exactly what you want! ↩︎
Turns out the “weight (lbs)” column is not the “quantity” column. Who knew? ↩︎

Adventures in 3D printing

2023-09-17T00:00:00Z

The Sovol SV06.

I’d been idly considering getting a 3D printer for a while, but have only recently taken the plunge. I picked up a Sovol SV06 from Amazon for £199.99¹, which is a model commonly recommended for beginners. About three weeks later, I think I’ve finally finished fixing all the problems the printer has, and thought I’d document them.

Setup and out of the box performance

The setup of the printer itself was straight forward. Most parts are assembled, you just have to bolt the frame together, bolt the various parts to the frame, and connect some wires. The hex bits in the iFixit Mako Bit Set were a godsend for this, as the included hex keys were a bit flimsy.

Once everything is bolted and connected, you turn it on and immediately start looking around for the jet engine you can hear. The fans are loud. The instructions walk you through the initial calibration, which consists of:

Levelling the X-Axis gantry (where the print head moves). The printer does this by (gently) ramming the gantry up as far as it will go.
Adjusting the Z-offset of the print head. The printer has an inductive proximity sensor attached to the extruder, but it doesn’t know how high it is relative to the nozzle. The calibration process involves manually dialing in this offset while moving a piece of paper back and forth under the nozzle.
Levelling the bed. This is entirely automatic: the printer just probes a bunch of points on the bed with the proximity sensor and builds up a mesh it can use to compensate for the bed not being level.

After that’s done, the included SD card has the standard “Benchy” model on it, pre-sliced and ready to print. It came out looking good:

A nice, problem free Benchy. No dramatic irony here.

The noise. Oh god, the noise.

I set about printing a few more things, but the noise of the machine quickly got to me. It sits approximately 80cm from my ear, and between the fans and the noises it makes when moving it was driving me mad. The fan in the PSU seems to sit at 100% power regardless of temperature or load, and sounds about three times louder than my laptop’s fans do when they’re running at full tilt. Fortunately, someone had designed a printable PSU fan silencer that redirects the airflow (and most of the noise) from the fan. It doesn’t feel like it should help that much, but it does significantly reduce the noise as it claims. This was the first of many times I’d use the 3D printer to print parts for itself.

The other noise was a lot less straightforward. The linear rods that all three axes run on pass through several bearings. Sovol apparently don’t bother to apply any lubrication to these, so it sounds like an elephant is moving through a gravel pit when the printer is running. Some people online suggest rubbing lube on the rods and pushing the movable parts back and forth, but this just results in a load of lube caught on the dust filters of the bearings².

The solution to this, then, was to dismantle most of the printer to gain access to each of the ten bearings, and manually lubricate them. This was tedious and messy, but not actually that difficult. It doesn’t seem like the kind of thing you should have to do on a brand-new machine, but I guess you get what you pay for.

Speeeeeeed

3D printers are slow. The SV06 is not one of the faster ones. One simple way to increase the print speed is to change out the nozzle. The SV06 comes with a 0.4mm nozzle, which is pretty standard, but if you upgrade to a 0.6mm nozzle you can extrude more than twice the volume of plastic in the same amount of time³. The consensus among anonymous internet people is that if you’re using a modern slicer there isn’t much difference in print quality when doing this.

I dutifully ordered a new nozzle, and after it turned up set about installing it. This is mostly straight forward, aside from the complication that you’re meant to do it when the hot-end is hot. That makes sense: you want it be under the same thermal expansion it will be under during use, but the tool they provide to change the nozzle is all metal. So you have a relatively delicate operation that you have to do in a bit of a rush before the heat creeps all the way up to your hand.

With the new nozzle in place, the printer was noticeably faster. I didn’t notice any difference in print quality, either.

SD cards are not fun

Up until this point, my process for printing anything was to slice it on the computer, export the gcode file to an SD card, turn around and walk over to the printer, insert the SD card, and start the print from the LCD. I don’t particularly mind those steps, but the SD card slot on the Sovol is terrible. It doesn’t line up well to the hole in the case, doesn’t guide the card in well, and is all round a pain to use.⁴

To remove the sneaker-net element of this process, I ordered a Raspberry Pi and installed OctoPrint on it. OctoPrint provides a web interface to the printer (which it controls over USB), and most slicers can automatically export the gcode to an OctoPrint instance.

While OctoPrint itself is great, there was one small problem: if you connect anything to the USB port on the printer, it tries to draw 5V from it and “backpower” itself. It’s not meant to draw power from the USB port, it’s just not designed well. A lot of the cheaper 3D printers share this flaw, it seems. The fix here is to get a power blocker such as the one made by PortaPow that simply leaves the +5V line unconnected between the two ends. Presumably Sovol could fix this by adding a diode to the USB power line, but maybe that would push their costs too high?

After getting OctoPrint working, I printed a nice case for it to mount on the side of the printer. I slotted the Pi in, and when I powered it on again it didn’t boot. When I went to pick it up to debug the problem, I burnt my finger on the SD card⁵. Apparently if you break SD cards in a certain way, they can short out and get very hot. Fun! Maybe I shouldn’t have been using the no-brand card that came with the printer…

What do we do with a drunken bed?

I continued printing bits and bobs, but was starting to notice a new issue: if I was printing multiple copies of the same object, those on the right hand side of the bed often failed. OctoPrint has a nifty plugin that lets you cancel certain regions from the build, which saves it ruining everything, but only being able to print in certain places was annoying.

I ran through all the troubleshooting steps I could think of, including a foray into custom firmware with different bed levelling abilities, but nothing seemed to help. Another OctoPrint plugin later and I could see the problem:

This should probably be straight.

The orientation of the graphic is a bit confusing, but you can see how the right hand side of the bed is significantly higher than the left. There’s a total variance of just over 0.5mm, which is apparently enough to cause problems even with the auto bed levelling. I spoke to Sovol support, and eventually they suggested disassembling the print bed and measuring the aluminium spacers that hold the bed. Sure enough, they were all different heights:

You had one job…

There’s a 0.13mm variance in their heights, which doesn’t account for the 0.5mm seen in the bed mesh, but it’s a good starting point. Rather than go back and forth with Sovol support over the course of many days, I just ordered some nylock nuts and reinstalled the bed without spacers. The nuts hold the bed in place, while still allowing you to tighten or loosen the screws to adjust the height.

After five or six rounds of totally and utterly uneventful adjusting and re-leveling, I got to this point:

This is much more straight.

There’s only so much you can do when you only have five screws to adjust, but I’m pretty happy the variance is now under 0.15mm. That’s definitely in the “good enough” range that the bed leveling algorithm can compensate for.

Whoops

So, about that “totally and utterly uneventful adjusting” I did. To get at the screws that hold the bed in place, you have to remove the thin sheet that acts as the build surface. This attaches magnetically to the bed, so it’s easy to do, but I am lazy and decided to leave it off while I fiddled with the bed.

There’s a slight problem here, though: when it’s working out the bed mesh the printer uses the inductive proximity sensor. The inductive proximity sensor detects metal. The metal is in the removable sheet. The first time I tried to run the bed mesh, the printer rammed the extruder assembly into the bed at a decent speed and ended up at a rather nasty angle.

I checked over the extruder and found the heat break had bent:

This should also probably be straight.

I tried printing with it as-is, but the filament came out too thin and at an angle, which made the print go about as well as you’d expect. I ordered a replacement, installed it, and… nothing worked still.

At this point I was getting thoroughly fed up. There seemed to be one problem after another, and no good way to diagnose problems with the print not sticking (because there are a dozen or so different potential causes). After a lot of frustrated googling, I found a post on the Prusa forums that suggested cleaning the build sheet with dish soap. I’d cleaned it with IPA, but several people were saying that dish soap magically fixed issues that IPA couldn’t. I took the plate to the kitchen, gave it a wash, and the next print went down perfectly.

Growing a backbone

For a blissful period of about four days the printer was chugging along perfectly with no issues. Then it started making a weird noise. In a display of amazing restraint, I didn’t immediately throw the whole thing out the window. Looking at the printer, I could see that the cable running from the extruder assembly to the main board was sagging and rubbing on top of the print as the print head was moving around. I’m not sure what property of the cable was keeping it aloft before, but it apparently ran out after about three weeks.

Like most of the other problems with the SV06, this design flaw has been noted by others and worked around. I printed a cable chain and installed it⁶. Amusingly, while I was printing the chain, the cable dragged on the print and dislodged one of the pieces entirely before it was finished. Fortunately, it didn’t affect the neighbouring pieces, so I just had to run off a replacement for that one.

The difference is rather pronounced:

It feels like I own a 3D printer to print parts for my 3D printer…

If you can’t see it: in the first image the cable is sagging and actually ends up below the print bed. The individual links of the cable chain limit its freedom of movement, stopping it sagging.

The end?

Once again the printer is printing properly again. I’m sure there will be more problems, but hopefully I get at least a week or so before anything else goes wrong. Maybe I’ll print an “X days since the last SV06 problem” counter…

I think, if I had to do this all again, but with the knowledge I have now, I’d have stumped up the extra cash to get a Prusa MK3S+⁷. This is the original machine on which the SV06 (and a lot of other cheap imitations) is based. Some obvious benefits it has over the SV06:

The extruder cable runs on the outside of the machine, so won’t droop onto prints
The heated bed has copper embedded in it for use in the induction sensor, so it won’t crash into the bed if the build sheet is removed
They actually put lubricant in the bearings instead of shipping them bone dry
The bed is held in place with screws instead of poorly sized aluminium spacers, so you can adjust the height without having to take the whole thing apart
They don’t use the cheapest possible power supply and main board, so it doesn’t backpower off of USB devices or have the loudest fans known to mankind

Prusa also have a much better attitude towards 3D printing: they open source the hardware designs (which is why there are so many cheap clones), and they actually use the printers themselves. The plastic parts of an SV06 are injection moulded, but those on a Prusa printer are actually printed on a Prusa printer. Not only is it cool that they use their own products, it means they have to run them en-masse so they’re obviously invested in making them reliable. They also have a reputation for exceptional support.

Despite all the problems, I do enjoy having the printer. I’ll probably talk more about the prints I’ve done that weren’t for the 3D printer itself in the future.

The RRP is £279.99, Amazon discounted it down to £269.99 then offered a £70 voucher. The voucher says it expires at midnight, but it’s said that every day for the past three weeks… ↩︎
Which is exactly what another set of people said would happen. It was worth a try, though. ↩︎
This feels strange, but if you work out the areas of the nozzles it makes sense: a 0.4mm diameter nozzle has an area of 0.04πmm² (the radius is half the diameter, and the area of a circle is πr²), and a 0.6mm diameter nozzle has an area of 0.09πmm². Maths! ↩︎
At least it doesn’t eject the SD card across the room like this Ender 3 V2! ↩︎
My only 3D printer related injury so far. It’s impressive I can be around a 200 degree hot-end and somehow burn myself on a storage device. ↩︎
Well actually I printed 5 copies of their calibration piece until it was perfect, then printed the actual cable chain, then had to sand each of the individual links because they still weren’t good enough. God, I hate sanding. ↩︎
Or maybe I’d cave and get the newer, shinier, much more expensive MK4. That wouldn’t be out of character. No, I didn’t just check my bank balance. You’re imagining things. ↩︎