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10 Weeks with an Apple Watch 10

2025-09-09T00:00:00Z

My watch. Yes, I am available for wrist modelling opportunities.

Around ten weeks ago¹ I picked up an Apple Watch 10, and have been wearing it almost constantly since. It’s not my first Apple Watch — I had a Series 5 for a bit back in 2020 — but it’s the first time I’ve actually stuck with it. Ten weeks seems like an apt time to reflect on it.

Firstly, why did I even bother? Well, for a couple of years I’d been wearing a Xiaomi Smart Band 7, mainly to monitor my sleep stats and set alarms that won’t wake up everyone else nearby. Its battery life was fantastic — with notifications and other things turned off, I got about a month of use between charges — but actually using it felt like trying to order food via the medium of interpretive dance.

My biggest gripe was the screen lock. If I didn’t have the screen locked then I’d periodically trigger it during the night when I moved around and it came in contact with my chest or leg. With the lock enabled you had to deliberately swipe up from bottom to top to enable interaction, but it didn’t work reliably. When I wanted to adjust an alarm, I’d be stood swiping repeatedly trying to get it to respond. When you finally get it unlocked, the whole interface is just fiddly.

The other issue was the data quality. There were some nights when I’d been woken up, sometimes even getting up and moving around, and it just didn’t show it in the data. If it can’t even get whether I’m asleep right, can I trust anything else it says?

I spent a while researching the best devices for sleep tracking. The Oura ring came highly recommended, but it was expensive and required a subscription to do anything useful. No thanks! The Apple Watch was consistently rated pretty well, and I reasoned I could pick up a refurbished older unit. I’ve been using an iPhone as my daily driver for a while, so it’d fit right into my begrudged walled garden.

The Series 10 has a significant advantage, though: it charges much quicker than all the previous generations. On a 30-minute charge, the Series 10 can go from 0 to 60%; the 9 can only make it to 40%, and my old 5 a measly 30%. Shorter charge times means I’m far less likely to leave it on charge and wander off without it. In some ways the daily charging is more convenient than monthly: the wireless charger sits on my desk, and I plop the watch on it for a little while in the evening; I don’t need to dig out the weird pogo-pin connector that has vanished sometime in the last four weeks, then carefully arrange it so it stays attached.

How a watch maybe saved my life

One of the big features of the Apple Watch, like many other wearable devices, is health and fitness tracking. I didn’t think much about this, beyond the sleep data I wanted, at first. I’ve never had a particularly good relationship with exercise², but I do like some good statistics. I started going for walks more often to get more data and see the graphs of VO2 max and HR recovery gradually inch up. That wasn’t the most profound effect on my health, though…

The recent versions of the Apple Watch have a feature that monitors for sleep apnea, a disorder where you don’t breathe properly during your sleep. I knew I wasn’t sleeping great — that’s why I was paying attention to sleep tracking data — but was still a bit surprised to get a notification from Apple Health after wearing the watch for 30 days. It gives you a graph to print and take to your doctor. So I diligently booked an appointment and a few weeks later went to see my GP.

The appointment went about as you’d expect: talking about referral to a sleep centre for a study, and so on. Towards the end, the doctor took my blood pressure (sleep apnea can be caused by, and can cause high blood pressure, in a lovely little vicious cycle). I don’t think either of us expected anything; it was just one of those standard checks for a related problem. After taking the reading, the doctor looked at me and said, “I can’t let you leave with a BP like this”. Yikes!

Blood pressure readings are split into stages: normal is under 120 mmHg³ over 80 mmHg⁴, stage 1 is up to 140/90, stage 2 is up to 180/120, and above is simply called “crisis”. Guess where I was? Also, fun fact: depending on how exactly you count and attribute things, hypertension comes out as the single largest cause of death in humans. It doesn’t kill you outright, but contributes to strokes, coronary artery disease, heart failure, and lots of other lovely things you don’t want on your CV.

After doing a few more readings, it settled down to just under the “crisis” stage and into the “holy crap, start treatment immediately” stage instead. I won’t labour on much more about this, but things are definitely moving in the right direction now⁵.

While the Apple Watch didn’t literally save my life, it triggered the chain of events that led to this diagnosis and treatment. Who knows what would have happened had it remained undetected? Probably nothing good. Also, go check your blood pressure! It’s simple to do and simple to treat if there is an issue, but so many people are walking around with hypertension and not even realising.

Building gates in the walled garden

Even though the watch is arguably a life-saver, not everything is rosy. It’s an Apple product, so you’re firmly locked in a walled garden, jealously guarded by people wearing black turtlenecks. Fortunately, there are a few ways to make it less painful.

All the health and fitness data is stored in Apple Health. You can export data as a big messy file, but it’s a very manual process to do so and the data format is gnarly. Luckily, there’s an app for that! Health Auto Export can, well, automatically export health data. It does what it says on the tin. It can send the data to Home Assistant, over MQTT, or dump it in some cloud file services, but I just have it post it all to a REST endpoint on a service I wrote. Then I dump it all in a database and can do whatever I want with it!⁶

Another tool that’s more useful on the watch itself is Apple Shortcuts. This is their no-code “if-this-then-that”-type thing. You can make automations or shortcuts that run a number of tasks. I have a whole slew of them I access via a complication⁷ on my watch face: one which prompts for input and adds an item to my to-do list (swiping to write letters is surprisingly not horrible), one which lets me select from a bunch of pre-written ones (“charge kindle”, “take laundry out in 1 hour”, type things), one to log my weight into Apple Health, one which can open and close the blinds in my room, and so on. It’s a surprisingly robust and easy-to-use system and offers just enough freedom that I’m not constantly grating on the edge of the walled garden.

Shortcuts being able to initiate arbitrary web requests is the real killer feature for me. Anything I can’t do on the watch itself, I can just farm off to a web server and connect it up with a shortcut. No need to learn Swift or pay Apple for the privilege of being a developer! For a lot of things, like controlling the blinds or adding to-do items, I already had a HTTP endpoint available and exposed over Tailscale⁸. Adding it to the watch was just a case of entering the right things in the Shortcuts app.

Daily nitty-gritty

There are lots of other little bits and pieces that come up when using the watch daily. I don’t think I can bundle them up into a pleasing narrative arc, so instead please enjoy some disjointed paragraphs of observations.

The Apple Watch has a lot of nagging abilities. It can notify you about your fitness “rings”, prompt you to stand up every hour, count how many seconds you wash your hands for, etc. I think I’d dislike these just on general principle, but the way it does them is so condescending it’s painful. I think there’s probably a cultural divide issue here, but there is no way in British English to say “Great job! You washed your hands for 30 seconds!” without it sounding like you’re being amazingly sarcastic or like you’re talking to a young child. So I turned all of that nonsense off. It’s meant to be a tool not a wannabe life coach.

You can access Maps directly on the watch and even do navigation. It works really well. The navigation mode has some nice haptic feedback: it does a short pulse as you’re approaching a turn, and then a long pulse at the actual turn. I like it a lot more than having to dig out my phone or have the directions read out. You get one pulse, glance down and see where you need to go, then it reminds you a little later when it’s time to do it. It’s a delightful user experience.

Watchfaces aren’t quite so delightful. There’s a limited number of built-in ones, and some are “exclusive” to the Ultra Series, and you can’t use them on a peasant watch like a Series 10. Annoyingly, there’s not one that does exactly what I want: a plain analogue clock with an inset date and four complication slots around the outside. Instead, I have to use one of the slots to show the date. There are third-party watchfaces, but they have issues. Firstly, there’s no actual API for making watchfaces⁹, so what they do is bodge it horribly by using a photo background that has fake widgets on it. On top of that they’re almost universally subscription-based. Again, no thanks¹⁰.

The issue I had with the Smart Band triggering when I was sleeping is solved trivially on an Apple Watch, by virtue of it having a physical button in the crown. When you put it in sleep mode, you have to double-press the crown to unlock it before it’ll do anything else. It hasn’t misfired once while I’ve been using it.

Sleep data; spot when I swapped devices!

Finally, a special mention for the gesture controls. If you raise the watch it reliably wakes up (switching from a low refresh rate, dimmed screen to an active, brighter one); you can then double-tap your index finger and thumb together and it will scroll down or page through whatever you’re looking at. The killer feature for this is navigating recipes: you can advance to the next step in a recipe while your hands are covered in flour. It’s also handy for reading notifications: when one pops up, you can double-tap to expand it, then, when it gets to the bottom, it’ll outline the default button (often “Dismiss”) and you can double-tap again to click it.

The verdict

I normally don’t like writing an actual labelled conclusion, but it feels like one is needed here! Overall, I’m happy with the watch. The daily charging doesn’t bother me, the data gathered seems reliable, the health monitoring has obviously paid dividends already, and the walled garden isn’t too chafing. It’s a straight upgrade over my old Smart Band, and I think it was worth the cost.

The original reason for getting the watch was better sleep tracking, though, so how well did it do? I’m much happier with the data: it seems to more accurately represent when I was awake in the night, and overall the sleep phases just seem to make more sense. You can see in the graph that the old data switched frequently between phases, and they didn’t quite line up for some reason; towards the right when the Apple Watch is supplying the data instead there’s a much more consistent pattern of sleep phases that repeat over the course of the night.

I’m not going to advocate that you go out and buy one, though. I know my requirements and usage aren’t typical, and I’ve also not got experience with any recent Android Wear alternatives or the new version of the Pebble watch that’s coming soon. You should definitely get your blood pressure checked, though!

OK, it’s more like 14 now, it’s taken a while for this post to make its way from my brain into text. ↩︎
Exercise for the sake of exercising just seems so overwhelmingly tedious and boring to me. And other types of exercise generally require social interaction, coordinating with people, and so on. ↩︎
Who decided to use “millimetres of mercury displaced” as a unit? You can’t just put random chemical symbols in units! That’s not how this works! ↩︎
Blood pressure readings have two parts: systolic (the pressure when the heart is beating) and diastolic (the pressure between those beats). They’re generally presented with the systolic reading on top and the diastolic reading below, and read as “X over Y”. Now you know what some of the random numbers they shout in medical shows mean! Yay learning! ↩︎
No thanks to how much salt is in everything. I’m pretty sure I’ve had at least twice the recommended daily amount of salt in a single serving before. Don’t even get me started on the things that are “low salt” but are still full of sodium from other sources. I don’t have a problem with ionic compounds, I have a problem with sodium! ↩︎
This mainly looks like drawing graphs that are slightly different to the graphs in the Apple Health graphs, for reasons I’m not sure I can explain. Making graphs is fun, OK? ↩︎
Complications are basically just home screen widgets, but with a fancy name because they’re on a watch. ↩︎
Tailscale actually causes me some problems here: everything works fine when the watch is connected to my phone, as the phone handles the Tailscale part, but if I’m not carrying my phone the watch will try to connect over WiFi directly and doesn’t understand anything about Tailscale. It happens infrequently enough that I’ll just live with it; it’s not much worse than having no signal on a phone. ↩︎
Yay walled gardens… ↩︎
I don’t object to subscribing to things in general, but it has to be something that’s worth the ongoing cost and offers something in return for the subscription. A watchface doesn’t need enough ongoing maintenance to justify subscribing to it, it’s just a cash grab. ↩︎

Home Automation Without the Megacorps

2025-05-21T00:00:00Z

I first experimented with home automation in 2016, by picking up a Samsung “SmartThings” hub. It was terrible. The UI to configure things was slow and clunky, firmware updates were applied whether you wanted them or not, and everything stopped working if their cloud services stopped. You were also locked into whatever integrations they deigned to support, of course. After that broke for the umpteenth time I scaled back and for years the closest I got to home automation was a couple of Hue bulbs.

Recently I’ve been building it out again, though. This time using off-the-shelf components that interop using Zigbee, open-source software, and some code I wrote myself. It’s great; it runs entirely locally and has had basically zero downtime. The Zigbee ecosystem lets me integrate all sorts of things without having to spend lots of money on “smart” alternatives. I think I’ve spent less on this incarnation than I did on the original SmartThings hub all those years ago (even without adjusting for inflation!).

My current setup

I run everything on a Raspberry Pi 4, with a Sonoff USB Zigbee adapter based on the CC2652P chipset¹. Interfacing with the Zigbee stack is handled by zigbee2mqtt (z2m for short), an open-source project that basically bridges your devices to an MQTT broker². When a device reports some data, it will send a new message over MQTT; when you want to make a device do something you just post a message back. It’s incredibly lightweight, but supports a huge array of devices out of the box. And as it’s just using MQTT, it’s trivial to integrate with other software or build on top of.

I know a lot of people building out this kind of home automation use Home Assistant, but I don’t get on with it terribly well. It felt incredibly sluggish, and the entire project is just a bit… much. I want a binary or package or docker image I can just run, not an entire operating system. That’s not how computers are meant to work! In contrast, z2m is simple to set up, super light weight and responsive.

Anyway. z2m exposes Zigbee devices over MQTT, so I wrote some code in Go to connect to the MQTT broker, and listen to the messages. It’s grown a bit beyond this now, and I’m skipping some boring bits like error handling and JSON parsing, but at first I had something like:

for {
    message, topic, err := c.ReadSlices()
    
    if string(topic) == "zigbee2mqtt/desk-button" {
        if strings.Contains(message, "single") {
            c.Publish(nil, []byte("{\"state\": \"TOGGLE\"}"), "zigbee2mqtt/room-lights/set")
        }
    }
}

I think I actually made this harder to read by trying to simplify it here, but hopefully you can follow that it was relatively straight forward to listen for a particular action to happen (in this case me “single”-pressing on the device called “desk-button”) and then make another device do something in response (toggling the state of the “room-lights” device).

So what actually are these devices? At present in z2m I have the following:

Some generic buttons
An air quality sensor (USB powered), and a separate temperature sensor (battery powered)
A light switch
Some 240V relay modules, that I use to turn non-smart devices on and off
Some USB relay modules, for the same purpose
Some “smart” plugs that I mostly use to monitor power usage
A motorised blind roller

I think all of these are either Tuya or Moes branded, and were all sourced from AliExpress. You can get the same things from Amazon or elsewhere, but they tend to be 3-4x more expensive for the same product.

One of the cool things about Zigbee devices is that the powered ones work together to create a mesh network, so you don’t have to worry about network repeaters or signal strength like you do with Wi-Fi networks. z2m even makes a map showing the connections:

The network map produced by z2m. You can see how all the powered devices form a mesh that the lower power ones can connect to.

Some interesting automations

A Zigbee relay spliced into the power cable for the fan

So what do I actually do with all of this? Some of it is just what I’ll call “laziness automation”: I want to be able to turn on the lights without getting up and walking to the light switch. So there’s a Zigbee button on my desk that does it. Then there are some less manual automations: my blinds are automatically closed at sunset³, for example. It feels a bit trivial, but it’s surprisingly nice just not to have to think about that at all.

Another nice quality of life automation is the light I have above my monitor. It’s USB powered, and I now have it going through a Zigbee USB relay that lets it be toggled on and off. Then I have a small agent running on my desktop that turns the light on when the computer is unlocked, and off when it locks or shuts down. I keep meaning to make a “film mode” that detects when I’m watching a film, and turning all the lights and blinds down, but I haven’t got around to it yet.

The most complex automation is probably for a window fan. It’s not smart in any way, so I cut the power cable and inserted a Zigbee relay. The whole thing is housed in a little project box to keep it secure. The relay basically acts as a switch: the live wire leading to the fan runs to the “normally open”⁴ contact, while the upstream power goes to “common”. When the relay is told to turn the fan on, the two get connected and the fan gets power. Oh, it’s also not actually a window fan, but I designed and 3D printed some adapters so that it sits right in the window.

So now we have a window fan that can be turned off and on automatically. But I don’t want to have to press a button to do that. I’m lazy, remember? Instead, I made it so that the Go code constantly monitors the temperature reported by the air quality sensor, and queries the free OpenWeatherMap API to get the rough temperature outside. It can then turn the fan on if the room is too hot, and outside is cool enough to make a difference (there’s no point in blowing hotter air in!).

A graph of room temperature, showing the effect of the fan being turned on and off

I don’t want it to do that all the time though. The room doesn’t need to be cooled if I’m not around. There are various Zigbee presence sensors you can get, but the cheaper ones seem to be of dubious quality. Instead, I wrote some code to guess whether I’m present. It uses the state of the monitor light as a proxy for “is the computer in use”, and then makes some guesses based on the last time the computer was used and the current time (if I turn the computer off at midnight it probably means I’m going to sleep; if I turn it off at 2pm it probably means I’m going out somewhere).

You can see in the graph that the fan has a decent impact on temperature. I coded it to cool the room to 19 degrees, but then not turn on again until it was above 20. This prevents it flip-flopping on and off constantly. You can clearly see the pattern in the graph, as it actively cools and then slowly the room warms back up. This arrangement is much better than being woken up at 5am because it’s painfully cold. Trust me.

Bonuses: metrics and 3D printer

One of the things my custom Go code does is collate all the various stats reported by the Zigbee devices, and inserts them into a VictoriaMetrics database. I originally hosted this on the Pi itself, and it performed fine, but I’ve since moved it onto a server so that I can use it for some other things as well.

I set up Grafana to point to VM, and can create dashboards showing power usage, what devices are turned on when, and a bunch of environmental conditions. This also makes it easy to spot how good the data coming from the devices are. For example, the air quality sensor reports a figure for the amount of Carbon Dioxide in the air, as well as the amount of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). The graphs are basically identical, but on a different scale. It turns out this particular device has no actual way of detecting CO₂, so it just “calculates” it from the VOCs figure. Useful to know if you want to actually use that data.

Recently I came across a go library for interacting with Bambu Lab printers, so I’ve also hooked that into my automation. It exports metrics about the printer, so I now have a way of seeing what’s going on when I’m not physically present⁵. I even added a HTTP endpoint (exposed over Tailscale) that shows pictures from the built-in camera.

On the automation front, I’ve made it automatically turn off the printer’s light when it finishes a print, and also added push notifications via PushOver whenever the state changes. No longer will I be sat in another room blissfully unaware it ran out of filament seconds after I walked out the door!

Was it worth it?

These days you could probably just buy some kind of ‘smart home’ hub that works well enough, and do most of what I’ve done with a lot less effort and no coding. I’m still of the opinion that for something so essentially local, it should itself be managed entirely locally. I don’t trust companies like Google or Amazon not to kill their products, or change or remove an API I rely on.

Obviously the “Not Invented Here” approach of coding everything yourself doesn’t suit everyone, but as someone who enjoys coding and enjoys having things work just so it works very well for me.

It turns out the chipset is important. I initially used a similar Sonoff dongle that used a CC2531 chipset, and its performance wasn’t great. It often failed to pair with new devices, and dropped links to existing ones. The zigbee2mqtt docs do explicitly advise against the CC2531 chips for that reason. At the time they recommended CC2652Ps, so that’s what I went with. If you’re starting new I’d go with whatever their latest recommendation was. ↩︎
MQTT is basically a network protocol for publishing and subscribing to arbitrary messages. A broker is the thing that sits in the middle and routes the messages. I use Mosquitto but any will do. ↩︎
They originally also re-opened at sunrise but that was a terrible mistake. Who knew the sun rose so early?! ↩︎
“open” meaning “there’s a gap so it doesn’t work” not “open for business”. This confusion in terminology also extends to drawbridges. ↩︎
I use the printer in LAN mode, which means there’s no way to monitor it from a phone, even if you’re connected to the same network still. ↩︎

Upgrading the RAM in a Dell G15 laptop

2023-07-29T00:00:00Z

The Dell G15

I currently use a Dell G15 laptop for work. It has served me well for a little over a year, but recently it has been struggling a little with my day-to-day workload. It came with 32GB of RAM — the highest possible specification at the time¹ — but that is apparently no longer enough for me.

For a recent project, I was working on a Rust library used in an Android app. That meant running the usual glut of Android tools (Android Studio, an emulator and at least one Gradle daemon) alongside a normal IDE (IntelliJ IDEA). Throw in a web browser and a couple of electron apps, and I often managed to use all 32GB.

When you start swapping memory out to an encrypted disk — even an SSD — it doesn’t make for great performance. At first, I tried to work around this by enabling the Linux out-of-memory (OOM) killer, but it turns out that it’s not too good with Electron apps: it will kill the large browser process, but then the small Electron wrapper will just respawn it.

Can it be upgraded or not?

The obvious solution to not having enough RAM is to add more RAM. A quick look in the manual showed this might not be possible, though. The manual includes the following “Memory specifications” table:

Description	Values
Memory slots	Two SODIMM slots
Memory type	DDR5
Memory speed	4800
Maximum memory configuration	32GB
Minimum memory configuration	8GB
Memory size per slot	8GB or 16GB
Memory configurations supported	8 GB, 1 x 8 GB, DDR5, 4800 MHz 16 GB, 1 x 16 GB, DDR5, 4800 MHz 16 GB, 2 x 8 GB, DDR5, 4800 MHz, dual-channel 32 GB, 2 x 16 GB, DDR5, 4800 MHz, dual-channel

That unambiguously says that an upgrade from 32GB is not possible. I gave up.

Later though, I was complaining about memory issues to a friend, and he pointed out a Dell forum thread where a couple of people claim to have successfully installed dual-channel 32GB modules. Since the alternative was getting an entire new PC after only a year, I decided to give it a go.

The upgrade attempt

I ordered a pair of Crucial 32GB DDR5-4800 SODIMMs, and after they turned up dismantled the laptop. The G15 comes apart pretty normally: there are uncovered screws on the bottom holding the lower part of the case on. With those removed and some gentle prying, it pops off, and you get access to the battery, GPU and motherboard.

The first thing I saw was this:

The G15 motherboard adamantly proclaiming that it doesn’t want 32GB SODIMMs

Not one but two labels that indicate it will only accept 8GB or 16GB modules. Oh well, what’s the worst that can happen?

Oops?

I dutifully installed the new modules, reconnected the battery and put the case back together. I pressed the power button, and… nothing. None of the usual garish lights that immediately come on, no screen output, just a dead laptop. After reading some more of the user manual, I found that there is a tiny status LED on the side next to the ethernet port. Forcing the laptop to power off and back on again, the status LED blinked a distress code at me: 2 amber blinks, 4 white blinks. The manual says that is — unsurprisingly — a memory fault.

I figured at this point that the manual and labels on the motherboard were probably right. I took the laptop apart again, reinstalled the original 2x16GB modules, reassembled it, and pressed the power button. It didn’t boot. I don’t spend a lot of time fiddling inside computers, but I’ve done it enough that I’m reasonably confident I can’t entirely break a computer while swapping some RAM modules. I took to Googling², and found an interesting article that said Dell laptops don’t like to boot after RAM changes unless you clear the CMOS by popping out the battery for 15 minutes.

I opened the laptop up, and looked around for the CMOS battery. There wasn’t one. Turns out they don’t exist any more. I left the main battery disconnected for a while to see if it would help, and it didn’t.

Unexpected success

I started to get worried: if I couldn’t fix this, I wouldn’t be able to work until I got a new PC, and that wasn’t really in my budget at the minute. I sat reading old forum threads and help guides³, none of which were actually useful. Out of nowhere, though, the laptop booted up.

Naturally, I immediately shut the laptop down again, opened it up, and switched back to the new RAM modules. Then I turned it on again and sat waiting. After about 15 minutes of it looking totally dead, it turned on and showed a BIOS warning about the hardware configuration being changed. It then booted perfectly normally, and all 64GB of RAM was visible and usable.

My theory is that the forum threads were right: Dell laptops are funny about RAM upgrades. But somehow in removing the physical CMOS battery, they’ve kept the same “you have to wait 15 minutes” behaviour just without any indication that’s what’s happening. Regardless, I now have enough RAM even for the greediest of IDEs and Electron apps.

Bizarrely, the maximum spec has decreased to 16GB since then. ↩︎
In the generic sense. I use Kagi these days. ↩︎
On my phone because, y’know, the laptop was busted. ↩︎

Reverse engineering an Arctis Pro Wireless Headset

2021-06-12T00:00:00Z

The Arctis Pro Wireless Headset.

For the last year and a bit, I’ve been using a SteelSeries Arctis Pro Wireless Headset for gaming and talking to friends. It’s a fine headset, but because there’s an always-on receiver there’s no way to detect if the headset is turned on or not from the desktop.

Whenever I start using the headset, I set my desktop’s sound to go to the headset, and then when I stop using the headset I set it to go back to speakers. It doesn’t take more than a second, but some days I might put the headset on a dozen times as I’m on calls, or if it’s noisy outside, etc. That means it’s probably worth at least a few hours of my time trying to automate it.

At first, I hoped I’d be able to tell from the state of the USB device whether there was a headset connected but nothing at all changed when flipping it on and off. Then I went hunting for existing open source tools that might work with it and found that while people have reverse engineered many of the older Arctis headsets, no one has done the same for the Pro Wireless. I finished off with a search to see if anyone had documented the wire protocol even if there was no nice open source software to go with it; I came up short there, too. Looks like I’d have to do it myself.

Capturing data with WireShark

The headset exposes a Human Interface Device (HID), and the wire protocols for earlier versions of the Arctis series looked to be very simple messages passed over the HID connection. It should therefore be fairly easy to use WireShark to capture the data being sent and received by the official SteelSeries application¹.

After setting up WireShark and making it record only the headset’s HID connection, it quickly became apparent that the software was sending three different requests each second, over and over again:

Wireshark, showing a packet capture of a SET_REPORT request from the host to the headset

The packets we’re interested in are the SET_REPORT Request frames sent from the host to the device. Wireshark understands the HID protocol, so it nicely shows us the raw HID data; in the screenshot this is 0x40AA (ignoring the trailing zero bytes). The other requests sent immediately after have 0x41AA and 0x42AA payloads — clearly the first byte is indicating which piece of data is being requested.

The responses to these requests come back in an URB_INTERRUPT in frame:

Wireshark, showing a packet capture of the headset’s response to the earlier request

So the answer to our first request appears to be 0x04. The second response is 0x0402 and the third is 0x04 again. The first thing I tried doing was popping the spare battery out of the charger. The response to the 0x42AA request changed from 0x04 to 0x00 - that’s certainly clear enough! After a bit of waiting around, the battery in my headset dropped from full on the display to three bars, and at that point the 0x40AA response dropped from 0x04 to 0x03. The display on the receiver shows battery state as four bars, and it appears the wire protocol directly corresponds to that particular representation.

That left the 0x41AA request as an unknown. I tried everything I could think of, but it stubbornly kept returning 0x0402. I enlisted a friend who has the same headset to run some hacky Go code and report his values, and he also got a 0x0402 response. As I explained that I couldn’t figure out what these values are, he reported back that turning his headset off made the response change to 0x0202. In all my testing, I’d forgotten to try turning the headset off! That’s the one thing I was actually trying to detect, as well. Thanks, Simon, for helping me get past that bit of stupidity!

I still don’t know what the second byte of the response is, or whether there are other values than 0x04 for on and 0x02 for off, but I’m happy enough to label it as “device status” and move on.

Exploring other features

The software allows you to tweak a bunch of different settings:

SteelSeries Good Game software, showing the advanced headset settings

I went through each one and fiddled with all the values, recording the requests in WireShark as I did so. It turns out the protocol is very simplistic - the wire protocol directly corresponds to the UI elements in the software (or on the receiver, if you navigate through its menus). For example, the software allows you to set the “Headset auto shutoff” value in increments of 10 minutes. You might usually expect this to be converted to seconds or something similar before being passed to the device, but on the wire it’s actually sent as 0x00 for off, 0x01 for 10 minutes, up through to 0x0C for the maximum of 120 minutes.

All the dropdown options seem to function this way — if you pick the 6th option then the request payload will be an 0x06 byte. The sliders have fixed positions they snap to and function similarly: for the two brightness sliders pictured they snap to 11 positions and on the wire these range from 0x00 for off to 0x0A for the maximum.

At this point I was well past my goal of being able to detect whether the headset was on or off, and I was now just trying to see if I could figure out enough of the protocol that I could reimplement the control software on Linux if I ever wanted to. Just as I was about to close the app, something caught my eye: there are integrations with games and other software that can display information on the receiver’s OLED display!

There’s an official API for this, but it involves sending JSON to a webserver which runs as part of their app². That doesn’t feel very nice, and definitely won’t work for me on Linux, so I started a new WireShark session and took some captures while I spoke to myself on Discord.

Decoding pixels

The frames sent to the device whenever Discord showed a notification had a 1060 byte payload. The display on the receiver is 140 pixels wide³ and each pixel can only seem to be on or off, so I figured each bit in the payload corresponded to one bit of the output. I exported the data to binary in the hope that I could visually see what was going on - in theory if I line wrap the data at 140 characters it should look vaguely like the final output. Unfortunately, it did not. There was roughly the right number of high bits, but no amount of fiddling with them in a text editor could give me a coherent picture.

Instead, I wrote some code to write different values to the device. Starting with a payload of all zeroes and gradually increasing a bit at a time every second. After the first few seconds, I saw a line of pixels being drawn downwards on the left of the screen; had I just got the axes the wrong way around? After the first eight pixels lit up, though, they jumped over to the next column. The actual addressing scheme looks something like this:

Diagram of how pixels are addressed on the receiver’s OLED display

So the first 140 bytes given the pixels for the first 8 rows, the next 140 bytes fill in the 8 rows below that, and so on and so forth. Armed with this information I wrote a simple program to read an image and output it to the display:

Headset receiver displaying a custom Hello World message

At this point I was thinking about trying to get Doom rendering on the screen, but I couldn’t find anything nicely hackable that would let me grab the output and pass it on to the receiver. Instead, I decided to try a GIF decoder and before very long had a nice little animated display:

Protocol reference

All the HID messages have a single byte that determines the message type, then an 0xAA byte, then any payload required by the command. These are the ones I’ve figured out:

Byte	Command	Payload
`0x09`	Save changes	None.
`0x10`	Request firmware version(?)	None.
`0x27`	Volume limiter	`0x00` for off, `0x01` for on.
`0x2E`	Equalizer preset	ID of the equalizer preset to use.
`0x39`	Sidetone level	`0x00` for lowest to `0x09` for highest.
`0x3C`	Set headset timeout	Timeout, as a number of 10 minutes. `0x00` for off to `0x0C` for 120 mins.
`0x3E`	Mic mute LED brightness	`0x00` for lowest to `0x0A` for highest.
`0x40`	Request headset battery	None.
`0x41`	Request device status	None.
`0x42`	Request receiver battery	None.
`0x51`	Surround sound mode	`0x00` for off, `0x01` for on.
`0x62`	Auto-start Bluetooth	`0x00` for off, `0x01` for on.
`0x63`	Auto-mute game audio during calls	`0x00` for off, `0x01` for on.
`0x85`	OLED brightness	`0x00` for lowest to `0x0A` for highest.
`0x83`	Equalizer	(Not yet decoded)
`0x89`	Screensaver mode	`0x00` to dim, `0x01` for off, `0x02` for screensaver.
`0xD2`	Render image	Pixel array as described above.

Some of these I’ve not dug too much into because they didn’t seem very interesting. If you have an Arctis Pro Wireless and figure anything more out, let me know, and I’ll update the list.

If you just want to check device state like I originally did, I’ve contributed support for this headset to the excellent HeadsetControl project. It should be in the next release.

Unfortunately (as you’d expect) their application only runs on Windows, so this process involved an annoying amount of rebooting to Windows, fleeing back to Linux, and then realising I hadn’t actually recorded enough to figure it out and repeating. ↩︎
You can also send lisp to the webserver, and it will execute it. No comment. ↩︎
I know this not because it’s mentioned in the technical specs (it’s not), but because I took a photo and counted them out one by one. ↩︎

Why you should be using HTTPS

2016-06-17T00:00:00Z

The EFF’s HTTPS Everywhere logo

One of my favourite hobbyhorses recently has been the use of HTTPS, or lack thereof. HTTPS is the thing that makes the little padlock appear in your browser, and has existed for over 20 years. In the past, that little padlock was the exclusive preserve of banks and other ‘high security’ establishments; over time its use has gradually expanded to most (but not all) websites that handle user information, and the time is now right for it to become ubiquitous.

Why use HTTPS?

There are numerous advantages to using HTTPS, both for the users of a website and for the operator:

Privacy

The most obvious advantage is that HTTPS gives your users additional privacy. An insecure (HTTP) request can potentially be read by anyone on the same network, or the network operators, or anyone who happens to operate a network along the path between the user and the server.

Users on shared WiFi networks (such as those in coffee shops, hotels, or offices) are particularly vulnerable to passive sniffing by anyone else on that network. If the network is open (as is frequently the case) then anyone in radio range can see exactly what the user is up to.

Integrity

HTTPS also helps to maintain the integrity of your site. With a plain HTTP request, there’s nothing to stop anyone in between the server and the user from modifying the content of the request or the response. This is a frequent tactic used by annoying WiFi gateways (such as the ones you’d find in a hotel), dubious ISPs who want to serve you extra adverts, or just plain old nefarious attackers.

If you’re trying to convey some kind of information to users (and if you aren’t, why exactly are you running a website again?) it seems beneficial to both you and them if the information arrives as you intended, rather than in a modified form due to someone or something tampering with it.

Security

If your website has any kind of authentication, or session identifiers, it becomes extremely vulnerable to an attacker monitoring the traffic and stealing the credentials. This was starkly demonstrated in 2010 when Firesheep was released. This tool allowed anyone to quickly and automatically hijack social media accounts of anyone on the same network who was using HTTP to access them.

Even if your login pages are served over HTTPS, if you send a single session ID cookie over HTTP (such as a page you decided wasn’t particularly ‘important’) then an attacker can probably spoof the user’s session and gain full access to their account. Again, in the case of open WiFi networks that could be anyone in radio range.

Search engine rankings

Some search engines use HTTPS as a signal in their ranking algorithms. Google announced in 2004 that it was using the presence of HTTPS as a small positive signal, but that it may strengthen that signal over time as more and more websites switch to using a secure transport. It’s not unthinkable that at some point in the future there will be HTTPS-only search engines.

But… But… But…

There are lots of excuses for not implementing HTTPS. Most of them are either misguided or outdated.

It’s too expensive and/or complicated

In the past, getting HTTPS certificates was a pain. A number of free suppliers have existed for a while but the process for getting their certificates wasn’t particularly straight forward, and many imposed arbitrary restrictions on the certificate parameters. Even once you had the certificate, you had to fiddle about with your HTTP server configuration to make it work, remember to manually get a new certificate when the old one expired, and lots of other annoying busywork.

With the arrival of Let’s Encrypt, all that changed. You can retrieve and deploy a free HTTPS certificate with two or three commands. Renewal can be handled completely automatically with a single command executed by cron.

There’s no point; nothing on my site is sensitive

You might not think your content warrants privacy, but can you speak for everyone who accesses it? Even content that seems mundane to you — such as travel advice, or technical writing — could be used to build up a profile of a user. If an attacker is monitoring traffic in a coffee shop and sees a user looking at travel advice and weather forecasts for a foreign country, he could use that information to plan a burglary knowing that the user will be away. Similarly, some content which is perfectly mundane to you may actually be very sensitive in other countries with repressive governments. HTTPS makes it much harder for these people to snoop on traffic.

From another angle, if you’re offering any kind of information, instructions, or especially file downloads, there’s a severe risk to users if the content is modified on its way to them. An evil sysadmin could rewrite your travel advice to suggest visiting the local drug dealer’s hangout, or replace your download with a malware-infested version.

HTTPS is slower, uses more resources, etc

Back in 1995 this might have been a valid argument. Enabling HTTPS on a modern server will make an almost negligible difference to performance. If you also enable HTTP/2 (which most implementations only support over HTTPS), it’s likely to actually use fewer resources, and result in a faster, smoother experience for your users. HTTP/2 was designed to work with HTTPS, and designed with modern requirements and networking techniques in mind.

CloudFlare have an excellent demonstration of the benefits of HTTP/2, and it can show speed improvements of 2-3x in a typical environment. On top of being faster, HTTP/2 uses fewer connections which results in less resource overhead on both the server and the client.

So what are you waiting for?

If you run a website and aren’t using HTTPS, give it a try.